Is Microneedling Right for You? Let’s Break it Down.
Microneedling has gained immense popularity in the skincare industry, and for good reason. This minimally invasive treatment offers a variety of benefits, from improving skin texture to reducing the appearance of fine lines and acne scars. If you’re considering microneedling, this guide will help you understand its history, benefits, contraindications and what to expect.
The Origins of Microneedling
Microneedling may seem like a modern innovation, but its roots trace back decades. The concept originated in the 1990s when Dr. Desmond Fernandes, a South African plastic surgeon, developed the first skin-needling techniques to improve scarring and wrinkles. Over time, the technique evolved, and dermatologists and estheticians refined it into what we now know as microneedling or collagen induction therapy (CIT).
Today, microneedling is performed using devices such as dermal rollers and microneedling pens.
How Microneedling is Used Today
Microneedling is primarily used to stimulate collagen and elastin production, helping the skin repair itself. The treatment involves using a device with fine needles that create tiny micro-injuries on the skin’s surface. These controlled injuries trigger the body’s natural healing process, leading to firmer, smoother, and more youthful-looking skin.
Microneedling is commonly used for:
Reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Treating acne scars and surgical scars
Improving skin texture and tone
Minimizing hyperpigmentation and sun damage
Shrinking enlarged pores
Enhancing the absorption of skincare products
Addressing stretch marks
Benefits of Microneedling
Microneedling offers a range of benefits for different skin types and concerns. Some of the key advantages include:
Stimulates Natural Collagen Production: One of the most significant benefits is the natural increase in collagen and elastin, essential for maintaining youthful, firm skin.
Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles: By promoting skin cell turnover and collagen production, microneedling smooths out fine lines and wrinkles.
Improves Skin Texture and Tone: Microneedling helps with uneven skin texture, making the skin look fresher and more rejuvenated.
Diminishes Acne Scars and Hyperpigmentation: The treatment effectively reduces dark spots and acne scarring by encouraging skin renewal.
Minimally Invasive with Little Downtime: Skin may appear red and feel sun or wind burnt for a few hours, up to a day or two.
Enhances Skincare Product Absorption: By creating tiny channels in the skin, microneedling allows for better penetration of serums and skincare products.
Contraindications: Who Should Avoid Microneedling?
Although microneedling is generally safe, certain conditions may make someone ineligible for treatment. You should avoid microneedling if you:
Have active acne, herpes simplex, or other skin infections
Have eczema, psoriasis, or severe rosacea in the treatment area
Have a history of keloid scarring
Are pregnant or breastfeeding
Have open wounds, cuts, or recent sunburn
Have used Accutane (isotretinoin) within the past six months
Have an autoimmune disorder or are undergoing chemotherapy
If you have any medical conditions or concerns, it’s always best to consult a skincare professional before scheduling a microneedling treatment.
Importance of Pin Count and Needle Depth in Microneedling
When undergoing microneedling, the type of device used matters. Different devices have varying pin counts and penetration depths, which affect the intensity and effectiveness of the treatment.
Pin Count (12 vs. 18 vs. 36 Pins)
The number of microneedles in the device determines how densely the skin is treated. Here’s how different pin counts impact the treatment:
12 Pins: Best for targeting deep scars and wrinkles. Fewer needles create deeper penetration, making it ideal for intensive treatments with more collagen stimulation.
18 Pins: A balanced option that provides effective coverage while still allowing for deeper penetration. It’s great for general skin rejuvenation.
36 Pins: More pins create a shallower, more superficial treatment. This option is better suited for sensitive skin.
0 Pins, aka, Nanoinfusion: an alternative to microneedling, nanoinfusion uses the same device but instead of pins, tiny cones push resurfacing actives into the epidermis without piercing the skin. Great treatment option when a microneedling series has been completed and for sensitive skin.
Needle Depth and Its Implications
Microneedling devices allow for adjustable needle depth, which influences how deeply the needles penetrate the skin:
0.25 mm - 0.5 mm: Suitable for improving product absorption and treating fine lines, enlarged pores, and mild textural issues.
1.0 mm - 1.5 mm: Ideal for collagen stimulation, moderate acne scars, and early signs of aging.
Deeper needle penetration depths are available through dermatologist practices and usually require numbing the skin as part of the procedure.
Choosing the right pin count and depth depends on your skin condition, concerns and goals.
What to Expect: The Day of Your Microneedling Treatment
Pre-Treatment Preparation:
Before your microneedling session, you should:
Avoid retinol, exfoliants, and strong acids for at least 48 hours.
Stay out of the sun and avoid tanning beds.
The Microneedling Procedure:
Your skin will be cleansed, and gently exfoliated.
The microneedling device is used to create controlled micro-injuries on the skin. The depth and intensity of the treatment will depend on your specific skin concerns.
A targeted serum specific to your skincare goals will be applied post-treatment to enhance healing and results.
Facial concludes with mask, LED therapy and dermal layering.
Recovery and Aftercare:
Day 1-2: Your skin may appear red, similar to a mild sunburn or windburn. Some tightness, sensitivity, and slight swelling are normal.
Day 3-5: Continued sensitivity may occur as the skin heals.
Day 5+: Skin will start to look refreshed and glowing as collagen production continues over the following weeks.
Post-Treatment Care:
Avoid sun exposure and always use SPF 30 or higher.
Do not use harsh skincare products for at least 48 hours.
Keep the skin hydrated with a gentle, nourishing moisturizer.
Avoid strenuous workouts, saunas, and hot showers for 36-48 hours.
How Often Can You Get Microneedling?
The frequency of microneedling treatments depends on your skin type and concerns:
For general skin rejuvenation: Every 4-6 weeks
For acne scars or deep wrinkles: Every 4 weeks for a series of 3-6 sessions
For maintenance: Once every 3-6 months
Your skincare professional can recommend a personalized treatment plan based on your goals.
How to Power-up Your Microneedling Treatment: Best Add-Ons
To maximize your results, consider adding the following treatments:
Exosomes: These accelerate healing and boost collagen production.
Chem Peel: Layer a skin-specific peel to accelerate smoother, firmer, more radiant skin.
How to Know if Microneedling is Right for You
You might be a great candidate for microneedling if you:
Have fine lines, wrinkles, or acne scars
Want to improve skin texture and tone
Have large pores or hyperpigmentation
Prefer a minimally-invasive, low-downtime treatment
Are committed to using proper post-care and sunscreen
Consulting with a skincare professional is the best way to determine if microneedling is the right treatment for your skin concerns.
Final Thoughts
Microneedling is a powerful skin-rejuvenating treatment that offers numerous benefits, from reducing fine lines to improving overall skin texture. Whether performed in a spa or a medical setting, it’s essential to choose a qualified professional and follow aftercare instructions for the best results.
If you’d like to schedule a consultation to discuss best skin treatment options for you, click here.
If you’re ready to experience the benefits of microneedling, you can book your first - or next - treatment here. Of course, if you have any questions about this treatment, please reach out!
