When it comes to skincare, the key to achieving radiant, healthy skin often lies in understanding the active ingredients in your products. These powerful components are responsible for delivering the results we seek, whether it’s reducing wrinkles, brightening the complexion, or clearing up acne. This guide explores some of the most popular skincare active ingredients, what they do, and how to incorporate them into your routine for optimal results. For handy reference, Dermalogica products that include the noted actives are listed.

Ascorbic Acid, aka Vitamin C

• What it is: A potent antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals, which are molecules that cause premature aging and damage.

• Benefits: Vitamin C brightens the skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, and boosts collagen production, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

• How to use: Apply a vitamin C serum in the morning after cleansing and before moisturizing. Make sure to follow up with sunscreen, as vitamin C can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

• Dermalogica: Biolumin-C line, Multivitamin Power Firm Eye Cream, Age Reversal Eye Complex, Skin Smoothing Cream Moisturizer, Multivitamin Power Recovery Mask, Multivitamin Thermalfoliant, Clearing Defense SPF30, Powerbright Overnight Cream, Phyto Replenish Body Oil

Retinoids, aka Retinol

• What it is: A derivative of vitamin A that is widely regarded as one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients.

• Benefits: Retinoids speed up cell turnover, which helps to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and acne. They also improve skin texture and tone.

• How to use: Start with a low concentration and use it at night after cleansing. Gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance. Always use sunscreen during the day, as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity.

• Dermalogica: Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum, Retinol Acne Clearing Oil, Age Reversal Eye Complex

Hyaluronic Acid

• What it is: A naturally occurring substance in the skin that has the incredible ability to retain moisture.

• Benefits: Hyaluronic acid deeply hydrates the skin, plumps up fine lines, and enhances skin elasticity, leaving the skin looking smoother and more supple.

• How to use: Apply a hyaluronic acid serum after cleansing, preferably on damp skin, and then seal it in with a moisturizer.

• Dermalogica: Circular Hydration Serum with Hyaluronic Acid, Biolumin-c Gel Moisturizer, Hyaluronic Ceramide Mist, Intensive Moisture Balance Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing Cream Moisturizer, Stress Positive Eye Lift Mask, Powerbright Moisturizer with SPF50, Phyto Nature Firming Serum, Daily Milkfoliant

Niacinamide, aka Vitamin B3

• What it is: A versatile vitamin that works well with almost any skincare routine.

• Benefits: Niacinamide helps to reduce redness, minimize pore size, regulate oil production, and improve overall skin texture. It’s also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.

• How to use: Incorporate niacinamide into your morning and evening routine after cleansing and before moisturizing.

• Dermalogica: Age Bright Clearing Serum, Smart Response Serum, Age Reversal Eye Complex, Powerbright Line, Micro-pore Mist, Deep Acne Invisible Liquid Patch, Sebum Clearing Mask, Breakout Clearing Kit

Salicylic Acid

• What it is: A beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates the skin and unclogs pores.

• Benefits: Salicylic acid is particularly effective for oily and acne-prone skin as it penetrates deep into the pores to remove excess oil and dead skin cells, preventing breakouts.

• How to use: Use salicylic acid in the form of cleansers, toners, or spot treatments. Start with a lower concentration to see how your skin reacts.

• Dermalogica: Acne Clearing Skin Wash, Age Bright Clearing Serum, Retinol Acne Clearing Oil, Liquid Peelfoliant, Multivitamin Thermalfoliant, Daily Microfoliant, Breakout Clearing Booster, Post-breakout Fix, Clarifying Bacne Spray, Sebum Clearing Masque

Glycolic Acid

• What it is: An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane, known for its small molecular size, which allows it to penetrate the skin easily.

• Benefits: Glycolic acid exfoliates the surface of the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven texture. It also promotes collagen production.

• How to use: Incorporate glycolic acid into your nighttime routine with a toner or serum. Begin with lower concentrations to avoid irritation.

• Dermalogica: Daily Glycolic Cleanser, Liquid Peelfoliant

Peptides

• What it is: Short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin.

• Benefits: Peptides help to boost collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

• How to use: Peptides can be found in serums, moisturizers, and eye creams. They are gentle enough to be used both morning and night.

• Dermalogica: Biolumin-C Serums, Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50, Super Rich Repair Moisturizer, Antioxidant Hydramist Toner, Multivitamin Power Recovery Mask, Skinperfect Primer SPF30, Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel, Age Reversal Eye Complex, Ultracalming Serum Concentrate, Phyto Nature Firming Serum, Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream

How to Build a Skincare Routine with Active Ingredients

Building a skincare routine that incorporates these active ingredients can seem overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be. Here are a few tips:

1. Start Slow: Introduce one active ingredient at a time to see how your skin reacts. This will help you avoid irritation and determine what works best for you.

2. Morning vs. Night: Some active ingredients, like vitamin C and niacinamide, are ideal for morning use, while others, like retinoids and glycolic acid, are better suited for nighttime routines.

3. Hydration and Protection: Always pair active ingredients with hydrating products like hyaluronic acid and a good sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.

4. Listen to Your Skin: Pay attention to how your skin responds to each active ingredient. If you experience irritation, scale back usage or consult a skincare professional.

Understanding the role of active ingredients in your skincare products is key to achieving the glowing, healthy skin you desire. By incorporating these powerhouse ingredients into your routine with the guidance of your licensed esthetician (that’s me!), you can address specific skin concerns and enhance your overall complexion. Remember, consistency is key, and with a little patience, you'll start to see the benefits of these amazing ingredients.

At About Face Skin Co, I’m here to help you every step of the way on your skincare journey. If you have any questions about which active ingredients are right for you, don't hesitate to reach out. I’m always here to help you achieve your best skin yet!